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суббота, 21 января 2017 г.

Rising fabric fashion

Sporty, preppy and sexy. Since its creation in 1890, the turtleneck sweater transcends time. And if he has not always had a good reputation, this winter, it's him the star.

As Perfecto, jeans and white shirt, turtleneck belongs to the family of classic unisex who never really left the locker room for men and women. And if he was often forgotten at the bottom of a shelf, the discreet has that hint of nostalgia that protects every spring, traditional dressing of households. 
Originally, it is a piece conceived for outdoor sports. Riders, golfers, cyclists, hockey, American football, sailors: the era of athletes appreciate the practical and technical side of this funnel version of the sweater. For, in addition to protecting the throat from the cold, his neck knitted long avoids wear a scarf or scarf, and thus raise and cluttering the upper body.

In the early 1920s he entered the neck of girls. Or rather those of the ladies of the snowy peaks. "Like all other sports of the early century, skiing is an elitist activity. To face the cold top of the slopes, sports improvise a dress by borrowing active men that famous sweater wholesale ultra-cozy knit collar, "says Florence Müller, curator of textile and fashion Denver Art Museum. But it took nearly four decades before the rolled invites the fire. Around 1960, it stands as chic outfits hit chalet. Slipped on a time or a long skirt knit, clan stylish - like Romy Schneider, Jackie Kennedy or Grace Kelly - never left him. 
Freshly down from his mountain sports wear is found illico grabbed the collars of the stars of Hollywood. The reason ? This quiet femininity that emerges, this refined and glamorous side, casually. A weapon of mass seduction in which every legend who respects should be making the portrait. "Audrey Hepburn plays on simple sweater to highlight her face. Here, the garment does not need to do too much. It is the woman who, by his attitude, creates his character, analysis Florence Muller. Conversely, Marilyn Monroe is used to accentuate her generous curves. It allows him to play with her sensual image. 
The variation in sub-pull in the seventies marked a turning point. Intermediate way between a piece of lingerie and clothing, this second skin responds to the desire of girls to feel cramped.

The 1980 ring the end of a reign. On one hand, he is dethroned by a hybrid: the funnel neck. "Neither below or sportswear, its wide side and falling on the bust off a sophisticated new movement. It creates drapes, playing with volumes and materials, "says Florence Muller. It gives new life to lie while dramatized the utility side of his fake brother rolled. Moreover, at the dawn of the nineties, intellectuals and leftist political own it. Egghead cataloged and identity instrument, the centenary is abandoned by the women out of their dresser scarves, bandanas and other silky scarves. 
It took a long period of crisis that it finds its way letters. "The turtleneck is part of the protective parts that we like resurgence of the past. This season, at Céline, creative director Phoebe Philo has clothes that seem to have been designed to protect against diseases, analyzes the fashion historian. And the climbing is one of the conductors son of the collection. At Jacquemus or in clothing, it is stable and sheathing base from which to shape conceptual silhouettes on top. "This is the secret of longevity of a classic: continue to inspire young artists regardless of age.

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